My journey began with me taking the TGV from Gare
Montparnasse in Paris to Lamballe. I was in luck as the train journey was
relatively uneventful and Poul Erik, our chef (and co-founder) for the week
from the French Dining School in Kerrouet was on the platform in Lamballe train
station to welcome me. It was difficult to miss him as he had a straw hat with
the logo of the dining school and the biggest smile. Despite my jet lag (I flew
in from Shanghai to Paris the night before) and fatigue from legging my
suitcases across the train platforms (yes… one of those with an underpass and
before you ask, no escalators), I instinctively knew I would be in safe hands.
In the car journey cruising through the country lanes of Lamballe, I had an
immediate rapport with our friendly host who possess a wicked sense of humour
(hey it is a cooking course, I need the comfort that someone can crack a joke
when I make a fool of myself!). My worries of the airs and graces that go hand
in hand with most esteemed and accomplished chefs and restaurateurs immediately
dissipated.
The village of Kerrouet lies in the heart of "The
Mene", the beautiful rolling hills of Brittany which are so famous for walking
and cycling. The region is famous for its seafood and oysters, and the world
famous Kerrouet Royale was created in this very place and names after the
village. I could not have chosen a more idyllic setting for my learning
experience.
Poul dropped me off in a charming house in the village of
St. Gilles Des Mené within minutes from
the dining school, which would be my home for the coming week. Ray and Gaynor,
a lovely Welsh couple are the proud owners. They live in a beautiful French
gite on grounds that bore striking resemblance to an English garden, which I
must add was in its full glory. The sun was shining so bright to show off their
pride and joy. Gaynor took me on a tour
of their garden; I met with our gatekeeper the garden gnome, Ash their adopted
cat and their pet rabbit. The couple grew their own fruit and veg, there were
grapes, tomatoes, pumpkins, cabbage, rhubarbs… Some of the seeds were sourced
from the UK as these varietals are unheard of in the continent - runner beans,
parsnips and many more. Aside from tendering to their garden and looking after
their house guests from the dining school now and then, Ray is an avid painter
in his spare time and Gaynor was the Martha Stewart who brought the whole
Bretagne living experience together for me. You cannot imagine a more peaceful
and tranquil setting, and warmer hospitality from my hosts.
Oh and I mustn't forget there are pictures of Matthew, their
very handsome son around the house - think the lead actor in a period drama!
Gaynor told me a lovely Frenchman dropped up one day to gather some information
about the inhabitants of the village. The picture of Matthew caught the corner
of his eye, he proudly showed off his knowledge of L'Angleterre " I know
this man, Grant Hughes....!!!" Matthew could pass as a young Hugh Grant
(more attractive if I may add!) and I am told is an outstanding actor living in
London. I will put my money on him as the next Mr. Darcy or the next Matthew in
Downton Abbey!!
Poul whipped up a delightful (simple he calls it) welcome
dinner for his students in the night of arrival for the course. The idea is to break the ice, warm our
appetite and give us a sense of what’s to come in the days ahead. Sweet melon
with parma ham drizzled in balsamic, followed by veal escalope pan fried in
rich French beurre dressed with lemon, capers and anchovies (a Danish
tradition). We finished the evening with panna cotta made with fresh vanilla
pods in strawberry and Cointreau sauce with gooseberry and chocolate chips
sprinkled on top.
Every English family who reside in an old house in France
live to tell the tales of their remodelling woes. Poul's was no different, only more colourful
and graphic as the prior inhabitant of the house was a Sorbonne mathematics
professor whose artistic talent was ahead of our times and living standards
were more akin to our ancestors (the cavemen?!). You need to see the photos for
yourself... Rest assured I can say Poul and Niall, the co-founder of the dining
school restored the charming establishment to its former glory adorned with
modern comforts. Whether it is the installation of an open fire barbecue area
atop the fireplace, the quintessential chef oven with antique wood trimmings on
the side of the cooking hood, you can tell this is a labour of love and artful
expression of a professional chef.
The whole evening was a sensory experience and set the scene
for what’s expected in the journey ahead. It goes without saying the cooking
was superb, every bite was a testament to the freshness of the food and the
skills of the chef. The wines kept flowing and what a delicate and thoughtful
complimentary selection it was. As we looked out to the garden, we saw the
awakening of the moon as the evening descended on us. Throughout the night I
caught whiffs of the logwood as it glowed then withered away in the century’s
old monastic fireplace. As the candles flickered into the night, the music and
conversations gathered momentum, I took a deep breath and reminded myself to
take a mental note of how awesome it is to learn to cook and dine in this
historic building which stood the test of time. I knew I picked the right
course and I couldn't wait for my week to start.
Bernice Cheng
October 2013
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