Thursday 18 December 2008

Christmas Punch - Kerrouet House Glugg

Christmas is not yuletide without a decent glugg to warm the cockles of your heart during these dark, depressing, dank, dreary, dismal December days and one of the best gluggs in the world is made at Kerrouet House. The recipe is unique to Poul Jensen who invented it in Denmark for his restaurant clients who needed cheering up! In these days of investment woe and negative reporting we can all do with an extra lift so here it is. We call it the Jensen Punch! I warn you don't drink this one and drive!

You will need:

4 bottles of red wine
1 bottle of port
1 bottle of cognac
1 bottle of vodka
1 litre of water

Spices

2 cinnamon sticks
40 cloves
1 star anise
400 grams raw sugar (mollases)
200 grams of raisins
200 grams of chopped almonds

Method

Boil the water, sugar and spices slowly for 40 minutes. Take off the heat. Add the alcohol. Only heat up what you need to drink and don't allow to boil as you will remove the alcohol! Serve in a warm glass with raisins and almonds. Keep in a cold place if you have any left over which is very unlikely!!




Wednesday 10 December 2008

Kerrouet House Cooking School Schedule

Kerrouet House
Cooking School

2009 Schedule

http://www.frenchdiningschool.com

  DATE & WEEK NO
  LENGTH OF COURSE
        MENU
   AVAILABILITY
16-20 March (W12)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
27-29 March (W13)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
6-10 April  (W15)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
17-19 April (W16)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
20-24 April (W17)
FullSee website
   Vacancies
27 Apr-3 May(W18)
FullSee website
   Full
4-8 May     (W19)
FullSee website
   Full
11-16 May   (W20)
FullSee website
   Full
22-24 May   (W21)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
25-29 May   (W22)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
1-6 June    (W23)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
12-14 June  (W24)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
15-19 June  (W25)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
22-26 June  (W26)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
3-5 July    (W27)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
6-10 July   (W28)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
13-17 July  (W29)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
24-26 July  (W30)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
27-31 July  (W31)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
3-7 August  (W32)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
14-16 August(W33)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
17-21 August (W34)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
24-28 August (W35)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
4-6 Sept     (W36)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
7-11 Sept    (W37)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
14-18 Sept   (W38)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
25-27 Sept   (W39)
3 Day weekend
See website
   Vacancies
5-9 October  (W41)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies
19-23 October(W43)
5 Day
See website
   Vacancies

Saturday 29 November 2008

A Still in Brittany - Turning Cider into Calvados - with Theatre















When our Woodsman,Gabriel Herve (Gabby), invited us to the annual Alambic Lunch, we knew we were in for something special. Some of our neighbours had expressed concerns and even hinted that it could be dangerous. However we trust Gabby and his friend Shrek and enjoy very much being in their company.


Although we knew this event would take place before Christmas we only had one days notice! We had hoped to bring along a few friends from Kerrouet but things got complicated when we realised Gabby's mother was busy preparing galettes for lunch. Galettes are famous buckwheat pancakes which are very popular here and can be served as healthy fast food in a variety of wonderful ways!

As is customary in Brittany, a quick round of pastis was consumed at home and then we were whisked away to the local bar in the village of St Giles de Mene where Serge, the proprietor, again supplied us with more pastis while our host Gabby purchased lots of goodies for what looked like a real French lunch - 6 x bottles of Claret, bread, Camembert, sausages, foie gras , Brittany cookies and coffee.

Following the purchase of another few rounds of pastis , we were soon back in the vehicle and on our way to Gabby's parents home. Well I naturally assumed we were eating there so when we entered the house and introduced to his mother, I did the expected thing and kissed her and the other ladies present (each one four times on the cheek), took off my coat and smiled at all those present around the dining table.

A delightful aroma of fresh galettes filled the air. As I took my place at the table there was a scream from Gabby and it became clear we were not eating at this house!! We quickly took our leave, scrambled back into the vehicle as Gabby explained that he had collected the galettes and we were now on our way to the Alambic!

The countryside of the Mene is famous throughout Brittany and indeed France due to the numerous little hills and hideaways which traverse this beautiful terrain. Although we have cycled all over the place we were soon completely lost amid old oak forests and stream clad valleys and it began to rain. All of a sudden, the four wheel drive took a sharp turn to the right and we found ourselves in what appeared to be an abandoned granite quarry. There were a few vehicles present and what looked like an old steam engine under a compactor like shed. Smoke was bellowing out of the underbelly and the sweet smell of what can only be described as apple poteen arose into the damp air. We were at a temporary distillery!!

The scene came direct from a mad max movie! Here we were up to our ankles in mud; in an abandoned quarry standing close to the largest still I had ever seen in my life; smoke and steam spurting from its entrails (or Madam Thatcher as the locals called her); being introduced to all the farmers as they came to exchange their barrels of cider for casks of calvados! As each farmer came to do their exchange, they brought wine and food to share! There was a genuine festive feeling in the air! Without further ado, sausages were placed into the furnace of the still and within minutes, we were handed wonderful barbecued sausages wrapped up in galettes! Glasses of wine and Briton whiskey were offered around as the fumes of the calvados gradually consumed us all. The charming banter and brusqueness of the locals was captivating. These farmers and woodsmen have known each other all their lives and it is evident that they share a common culture and history which enhances their sense of fun and mischievousness.

Next thing I heard Gabby calling for theatre and La Fables de la Fontaine! He was busy directing Poul who was now standing upon a chair with a large camembert hanging from his mouth. Gabby was trying everything to get the crow to sing and it was some of the best drama I have ever seen! Gabby rolled on his back in the dirt like a fox,threw his feet high up into the air, cursed and twisted and courteously sang the praises of the crow. He charmed, bedazzled and surprised us all with a powerful and evocative performance. Needless to say he did not get the camembert as Poul swallowed it in the heat of the performance almost chocking with laughter along with the rest of us as he did so!


Thursday 20 November 2008

A Wonderful Time for Borsch

Not everyone is as lucky as we are to have Marcel and Edith living nearby. Not just because they are wonderful neighbours. Marcel and Edith are organic farmers and yesterday Marcel arrived with a big bag of beetroot along with an enormous white cabbage! When I saw the beetroot I knew immediately what I was going to do today! Yes folks with fresh beetroot it has to be borsch!

Funnily enough when I mentioned this to Marcel he seemed unaware of this wonderful Ukrainian dish. Many of our neighbours grow the beetroot as a staple food for their rabbits! The rabbits thrive on this vegetable and the result is the most wonderful rabbit pate on earth but that is a story for another day!!

Anyone who has been to Ukraine will know that everyone has their own special recipe for making borsch. Not only that but each one swears by their dead grandmother that their recipe is the most unique, the most superior with secret variations and processing methods. This is because beetroot, despite it's dramatic blood colours, cooked on it's own is rarely a treat. Fantastic as a salad. As a soup it demands time and treatment. However with the addition of a few basic vegetables and herbs it can become the king of soups! The texture and taste of borsch will vary depending on the cooking time.

I am making borsch for four people the traditional way. I learned the recipe from a lovely Ukrainian lady we know called Elena who lives in Chernivtsy - a beautiful historic town in the south west of the country about four hours drive from Kiev.

Ingredients:

5 x fresh beetroot
1 x white cabbage
3 x onions
4 x smoked sausages
4 x carrots
2 x potatoes
1 x garlic
1 x bunch of chives
2g x horseradish
1g x black peppercorns
1 x teaspoon of salt
1 x home made stock (half litre)
2 x litres of water

First place a large saucepan containing water and the home made stock on the stove. Cut and peel and dice five large fresh beetroot. Cut peel and dice two potatoes, four carrots, 3 onions, 1 garlic and shred one small white cabbage. Have some grated horseradish and cut chives prepared for addition later. Add the smoked sausages and diced vegetables to the saucepan and allow to cook slowly. Add salt and peppercorn. Add the shredded cabbage and horseradish once the soup has come to the boil but turn down and allow to simmer slowly for one and a half hours. This will bring out the delightful taste and wonderful colour of the beetroot.

Serve direct to the soup bowl with a sprinkle of chives and a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche.

This is a great winter soup. It is not only exceedingly tasty but the colour being a deep red is probably the most dramatic colour you can have on a plate. Coupled with a sausage and the dollop of cream or crème fraiche, it certainly deserves to be called "Soup of the Tsars"

Sunday 9 November 2008

Learning to live without Roellinger

We hear reports of doom and gloom from the resturant businesses of London and Dublin caught up in the crash of the world's financial markets. With vacant tables galore they would cast an envious eye at Les Maisons de Bricourt, Olivier Roellinger's 3 Michelin star restaurant in Cancale, Brittany which is fully booked up for lunch and dinner every day until the 15th of December when,very sadly for us, it will close. The restaurant would be fully booked up till St Patrick's Day 2009 and well beyond, so it is certainly not a lack of customers which are to blame for the closure. Running any restaurant is hard work and a 3 star Michelin restaurant even more so. While Mr Roellinger has decided to take a well earned rest we propose you give it a go cooking great food in your own home.
To help you we are running the following short courses at Kerrouet House which will enhance your cooking skills and give you a taste for some of the best food Brittany has to offer.

Sample Dinner Course

Brittany Escallops with Fleur de Sel de Guerande marinated with an orange and lime fructose

Grilled Red Mullet with toasted cauliflower puree and chive mousseline sauce

Quail with figs and apple

Gruyere cheese with selection of winter fruits

Almond and apple pie with poppy seed ice cream



Sample Lunch Course


Brittany Oysters with red onion and apple.

Salmon fish cakes with chives and tartar sauce

Selection of Cheese

Thursday 7 August 2008

Cooking Courses at Kerrouet House





Lunch day 1



Starter: Grilled scallop with rosemary on a Cauliflower purée


Main: Caesar Salad the classic way

Cheese: French cheese




Dinner day 1



Starter: Moules Marinade

Main: Chicken breast with tarragon, rosemary baked carrots,
slow roasted tomatoes and crispy potato pancakes

Cheese: French cheeses

Dessert: Panna Cotta with fresh summer berries







Lunch day 2

Starter: Carpaccio of Salmon with a pesto of basil
Main: Galettes a la Breton
Cheese: French cheeses


Dinner day 2


Starter: Duck salad with orange and apple
Main: Oven baked fish with risotto
Cheese: French cheeses
Dessert: Chocolate cake and fresh fruit coulis


Lunch day 3


Starter: Green Pea soup with chives and fresh cream
Main: Salmon fish cakes on a garden salad with dill dressing
Cheese:  French cheeses


Dinner day 3


Starter: Foie Gras terrine with green bean salad
Middle: Grilled Langoustines with garlic butter
Main: Slow roasted leg of Lamb and seasonal vegetables
with a tomato and herb dressing
Cheese: French cheeses
Dessert: Tiamisu

* Three day courses cost E750 per person inclusive of lunch and dinner.
Accommodation is available locally from E25 per night subject to availability.
Five day courses cost £950 per person including lunch and dinner.
Please check our website for further information.




www.frenchdiningschool.com

Who's Who at Kerrouet House

Poul Jensen has over 28 years in the restaurant business. He trained in one of the best French restaurants in Denmark (Gammel Aalbyhoj - Relais Gourmand - Tradition et Qualitie). He gained invaluable experience at some of the world's most esteemed restaurants including Longueville Manor (Jersey Channel Islands); Mietta's Restaurant of Melbourne (Australia) and the world renowned liner the QE2. In London Poul worked for Noble Rot (Mayfair) and The Walbrook Club (City of London) with Albert Roux.

Poul has also run his own restaurant in Denmark (Ebeltoft) for 8 years and gained widespread recognition for his cuisine. Poul has also worked in the wine industry with some of the best wine houses of France.

Niall O'Reilly has over 20 years in the entertainment and leisure industry. Niall worked for 14 years at the National Theatre (London) where he was responsible for security, safety and Licensing. Niall, a graduate of Economics, grew up along with a large family on a dairy farm in County Cavan, Ireland where he learned how to cook under the direction of his mother and grandmother. The farm was virtually self sufficient and nothing was wasted. Niall loves gardening and developing unusual hedgerow recipes. Rose hip jam and crab apple jelly are currently all the rage at Kerrouet House following a summer craze in making classic elderflower cordials!

Dorothy Crowscare has been looking after the gardens at Kerrouet House for the past three years. Her main role is to ensure that there are adequate supplies of organic herbs and vegetables available for the kitchen. She can always be found working in the garden and never happier than when surrounded by her flowers.

Onde Dragtoit has overseen works at Kerrouet House for the past four years. His main duties are to ensure the rising sun is properly greeted  each morning and that guests arrive with a smile on their faces! He is normally found facing east on the highest point of the property!

Ange Tomber looks after the dining room, library and winter lounge. Her main roles  are to ensure harmony and balance within the school. As someone who once excelled in catering excellence she is there to advise and remind guests that we all progress in life, sometimes up and sometimes down but the important thing is to always try your best, enjoy what you are doing and learn from experience.


Kerrouet House

Kerrouet House - was built in the 16th century as the home of the tax collector for the nearby Manor of Plessy and two other manor houses in the area. As a "royal" longere it fell into neglect during the French Revolution and was abandoned for many years. In recent times it had been home to a professor of Mathematics (Sorbonne) but unfortunately fell into a near derelict state in the 1990's. The house was discovered by Niall seven years ago on a holiday visit to Brittany. Despite the jungle of brambles, nettles and ivy surrounding the house, Niall immediately fell in love with the monastic stone entrances, grand fireplaces and royal chimney. Over the past few years Niall & Poul have worked hard to restore the property and now use the premises as both a beautiful home and a cooking school.

Kerrouet Village

The village of Kerrouet lies in the heart of The Mene - the beautiful rolling hills of Brittany which are so famous for walking and cycling holidays. Kerrouet is located 1 hour from Rennes with links to Eurostar in Paris and Charles de Gaulle Airport. Dinard Airport is a 40 minute drive with Ryanair links to London, East Midlands and Bristol. St Malo port and the wonderful seaside resorts of Val Andre are only an hour away.
Cancalle also nearby is world famous not only for it's oysters but also for Maisons de Bricourt - the 3 star Michelin restaurant run by Olivier Roellinger.

Cooking Courses

Five day courses run from Monday to Friday with introductory dinners on the Sunday evenings. The courses commence at 10am and run till after dinner (10pm) with a break following lunch (2pm - 6pm).








Wednesday 26 March 2008

Myself and other cabbages

Just back from a fantastic week in Ireland. Ireland is always special for me but this week included preparing a celebratory dinner in honour of my Dad's 80th birthday; visiting Newgrange  - a 5000 year old megalithic passage tomb (older than the pyramids of Egypt!)  and getting a look into Francis Bacon's studio in the centre of Dublin.   

One of the pictures my father painted for me is of himself in his garden working on his cabbage patch. It is titled "myself and other cabbages" and so it was appropriate that we dressed the dining table with three hearty savoy cabbages each of which held two wonderful white candles! Cooking dinner for 20 persons is always a challenge but when it's done in someone else's kitchen, that does bring unique challenges. We spend all day searching the markets for saucepans large enough for our soups and stews but all went exceedingly well in the end! 

My Dad had been a dairy farmer and so we decided to prepare a basic Irish recipe of Cauliflower soup with the famous Cashel Blue cheese, followed by a Beef and Guinness stew served with creamed mashed potato and fresh chives.  A wonderful green pesto sauce was also served in honour of St Patrick's Day which was close at hand! The cheese board offered an opportunity to try the excellent range of local Cavan brands now available. Outstanding were of course O'Reilly's, a soft goat cheese and Boilie, a cow cheese from the Brodie Family who also offer a Corleggy, a stronger hard goats cheese; all three were simply delicious. Further afield we sampled Ardrahan - a semi soft wonderful washed rind cheese from the Burns Family of Co Cork; a Carrigaline hard cheese from O'Farrells also from Co Cork along with a Cahhil Cheaddar from Co Limerick. It is wonderful that Irish cheeses are now making a significant impact on the international market winning awards galore into the bargain. A birthday cake of immense proportions was then served after the candles were extinguished by the great octogenarian himself, who not to be outdone by his musical children and grandchildren, gave a redition of  numerous Irish Ballads including The Croppy Boy, Spansil Hill and The Mountains of Mourne - always a popular Ulster song from the  poet and musician Percy French (Inspector of Drains - Cavan Council 1881!) Needless to say it was a great night and thank you Michelle, Gabriel, Liam, Clare, Joan, Stephen, Lydia, Georgina, Verity, Dermott, Agnes, Joe, Ciaran, Trish, Stephen, Pat, Annamay, Oliver and Poul for making it all a night to remember!!

After all the festivities were over it was appropriate to retreat back 5000 years in time to Newgrange - the famous Irish Passage Tomb located along the beautiful River Boyne in County Meath. The tomb which was built around 3200 bc is well worth a visit particularly out of season when you get a chance to stand alone within the stone chamber and let your imagination run amock in megalithic proportions. Words fail today when we try to comprehend the enormity of the task facing those few thousand farmers. How they managed to design and build such a beautiful, harmonic and integral stone structure at a time long before the pyrimads and Stonehenge. To realise  that they knew how to get a sunbeam to pass down inside a stone chamber 19 metres long once a year for the solstice at sunrise is indeed mindblowing. Such a civilisation deserved to have all its cultural heritage preserved so that we could know more of their secrets.  The few quiet moments you stand inside their 5000 year old chamber you know that this humbling experience will remain with you always.

It's all very well to dwell in the past but one has to finally recognise that we live in the present and with a joyous relief we took the back road to Dublin only a few hours away. We arrived to find an empty parking space immediately opposite the entrance to the Hugh Lane Gallery so it was indeed our lucky day. The Francis Bacon Studio is situated at the rear of the gallery so you can also take the opportunity to explore all the other works on display as well as the beautiful interior of what was once a very beautiful home. We were struck by the number of Renoir's on display but took particular delight in Monet's picture titled Waterloo bridge (1900) a beautiful picture as well as an historical picture of London's South Bank before development of the South Bank Centre and National Theatre. Also in the permanent colection is a wonderful picture of the Young Breton Girl by Roderick O'Connor presented to the gallery in 1904 which for us now living in Brittany was an addditional surprise.  However the Francis Bacon Studio was for us the most extraordionary aspect of the collection. To move entirely his London  studio mews home and all its crazy mad and delightful contents to Dublin and resurrect them as they were positioned on his death for all to see is an amazing acomplishment.  Thank you John Edwards for this kind gift to Ireland and I hope all Irish citizens take the opportunity to visit the gallery and take a look inside the private home of  this most wonderful painter who enjoyed and required chaos in creativity and drew forth form from disorder. Wonderful mad rude character who anyone lucky enough to drink regularly at the Colony Rooms in London's Soho will well remember!!

Back home now to Brittany as we must get started on our cooking school menus!

Bye for now

Nibbler

Wednesday 27 February 2008

Truffles in Provence

Well it was lovely to get down to another part of France famous for its great food and wine. We arrived in Nice, well Tourrette sur Loup in fact, last Saturday having had a stopover in Avignon.  The Popes Palace, the theatre and old town walls were very impressive, (particularly the Palace bread oven and kitchen which had to roast 128 oxen for one Pope Clement VI's banquet in 1342!) , the town itself was full of history. The long drive had taken its toll and we were delighted to sleep and prepare for the next five days of gourmet cooking and eating at the famous Nice cooking school belonging to Arne Fusager and Birthe Sandager up in the hills of Cote D'Azur! What a week we had!!

Everything came with truffles including roast pork , scrambled eggs,  truffle risotto, slow roasted lamb, truffle ice cream, artichoke, veal fillet with apples, turbot soup, scallop souffle, orange cake,  smoked salmon, foie gras terrine and mouth watering creme caramel to name but a few of the delights. 
It was an truely amazing experience and I have now eaten more truffles than one normally gets (if they are very lucky) in a lifetime ! Arne took us out to see the truffle market at Aups and we were able to see a well trained dog actually dig trufles out of the ground!  These truffle dogs are very valuable and we are advised that in season (November to March) farmers protect their truffle fields (and dogs) with night patrols and rifles! 


During all this food preparation and consumption we tasted lots of wonderful wines and rose's and were briefed on the local varieties and specific grapes of the Provence region.  These included wines from Chateau  de Cremat, Chateau Sainte Roseline, Chateau La Canorgue (where the film director Ridley Scott shot his  film A Good Year ) and a Le Van which was absolutely delicious. 

All this took place high up in the hills overlooking the most wonderful medieval village of Tourrrette sur Loup with Nice and Cannes visible in the distance. We were surrounded by olive trees, rosemary and lavender bushes, mimosa trees in full bloom and the most wonderful tulips the size of which are rarely seen in Northern Europe! 

And how wonderful to come back home to Kerrouet yesterday  and to find that a local actor from the adjoining village of Plemet, Marion Cotillard (who starred in the Scott film mentioned above), has won a Oscar for her performance as Edith Piaf in La Vie En Rose!! Our hills are alive with the sounds of music!!

Saturday 2 February 2008

Cooking Holidays in France

Well the kitchen is almost completed now and it took a lot longer than we initially expected. With underfloor heating, old  stoves, French Windows and our own chef doing design work way above the michelin requirements, it has been a labour of love all the way! The photos will tell the tale but personally the best job we did was not the new roof on this old 16th century house with links to the Manor of Plessy down the road but the large new French patio doors in the north wall which gives the most amazing view of the valley and the forests at the rear of the property. Our students will have to concentrate hard on their creme brulee's if they are not to be beguiled by the breathtaking views from the kitchen window!

The school doors will open on June 16th offering weekly courses on a wide variety of French and international cuisine. We have already had lots of enquiries from the UK (Sussex, Surrey, Oxford Hampshire) and Ireland (Dublin, Galway, Cork Wexford) and the Channel Island of Jersey and further afield (Germany, Austria, Singapore and Namibia. There is an increasing number of holiday makers who wish not to lie on a beach all day but get involved with an activity vacation and what better activity than learning how to cook better and eat well while on holiday into the bargain! Our students tell us they want to gain skills in a holiday atmosphere mixing with like minded colleagues and making new friends at the same time. Our school will ensure that everyone gets quality time with our Michelin trained chef. Many cooking schools don't let their students get hands on experience but here at the Kerrouet School, we pride ourselves with small classes allowing everyone to get involved in preparing the food and this covers the whole range from basic kitchen skills, visiting  the best food markets in France, purchasing and product appraisal (essential for seafood, cheese, meat and vegetables). French cuisine and wines are world famous and here in Brittany we are within the centre of the best seafood and vegetable markets of France. Students will learn how to bake real bread (essential for healthy living), cook oysters, mussels, scallops, crabs, langoustines, seabass, turbot, sole, skate, monkfish, salmon, seatrout, and a whole world of beautiful and exotic dishes. Check out our website for a wonderful range of mouthwatering recipes which are about to unfold on www.frenchdiningschool.com.