Saturday 29 November 2008

A Still in Brittany - Turning Cider into Calvados - with Theatre















When our Woodsman,Gabriel Herve (Gabby), invited us to the annual Alambic Lunch, we knew we were in for something special. Some of our neighbours had expressed concerns and even hinted that it could be dangerous. However we trust Gabby and his friend Shrek and enjoy very much being in their company.


Although we knew this event would take place before Christmas we only had one days notice! We had hoped to bring along a few friends from Kerrouet but things got complicated when we realised Gabby's mother was busy preparing galettes for lunch. Galettes are famous buckwheat pancakes which are very popular here and can be served as healthy fast food in a variety of wonderful ways!

As is customary in Brittany, a quick round of pastis was consumed at home and then we were whisked away to the local bar in the village of St Giles de Mene where Serge, the proprietor, again supplied us with more pastis while our host Gabby purchased lots of goodies for what looked like a real French lunch - 6 x bottles of Claret, bread, Camembert, sausages, foie gras , Brittany cookies and coffee.

Following the purchase of another few rounds of pastis , we were soon back in the vehicle and on our way to Gabby's parents home. Well I naturally assumed we were eating there so when we entered the house and introduced to his mother, I did the expected thing and kissed her and the other ladies present (each one four times on the cheek), took off my coat and smiled at all those present around the dining table.

A delightful aroma of fresh galettes filled the air. As I took my place at the table there was a scream from Gabby and it became clear we were not eating at this house!! We quickly took our leave, scrambled back into the vehicle as Gabby explained that he had collected the galettes and we were now on our way to the Alambic!

The countryside of the Mene is famous throughout Brittany and indeed France due to the numerous little hills and hideaways which traverse this beautiful terrain. Although we have cycled all over the place we were soon completely lost amid old oak forests and stream clad valleys and it began to rain. All of a sudden, the four wheel drive took a sharp turn to the right and we found ourselves in what appeared to be an abandoned granite quarry. There were a few vehicles present and what looked like an old steam engine under a compactor like shed. Smoke was bellowing out of the underbelly and the sweet smell of what can only be described as apple poteen arose into the damp air. We were at a temporary distillery!!

The scene came direct from a mad max movie! Here we were up to our ankles in mud; in an abandoned quarry standing close to the largest still I had ever seen in my life; smoke and steam spurting from its entrails (or Madam Thatcher as the locals called her); being introduced to all the farmers as they came to exchange their barrels of cider for casks of calvados! As each farmer came to do their exchange, they brought wine and food to share! There was a genuine festive feeling in the air! Without further ado, sausages were placed into the furnace of the still and within minutes, we were handed wonderful barbecued sausages wrapped up in galettes! Glasses of wine and Briton whiskey were offered around as the fumes of the calvados gradually consumed us all. The charming banter and brusqueness of the locals was captivating. These farmers and woodsmen have known each other all their lives and it is evident that they share a common culture and history which enhances their sense of fun and mischievousness.

Next thing I heard Gabby calling for theatre and La Fables de la Fontaine! He was busy directing Poul who was now standing upon a chair with a large camembert hanging from his mouth. Gabby was trying everything to get the crow to sing and it was some of the best drama I have ever seen! Gabby rolled on his back in the dirt like a fox,threw his feet high up into the air, cursed and twisted and courteously sang the praises of the crow. He charmed, bedazzled and surprised us all with a powerful and evocative performance. Needless to say he did not get the camembert as Poul swallowed it in the heat of the performance almost chocking with laughter along with the rest of us as he did so!


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