Du Danemark à l’Espagne, à chacun son Noël

Noël d’ici et d’ailleurs. Au village de Kerrouet, le Danois Poul Jensen applique à la lettre les traditions de son pays. Décorations, ambiance ou encore repas, tout l’esprit de Noël est là.

Il fait nuit noire dans le village de Kerrouet. À travers les fenêtres de la longère de Poul Jensen et Niall O’Reilly, de petites flammes éclairent le salon. Les bougies sont posées un peu partout dans la pièce. Il ne manque que le Père Noël. Chez Poul et Niall, la tradition de Noël est respectée à la lettre. Et c’est un sacré challenge ! Poul est Danois et là-bas, on ne plaisante pas avec la tradition de Noël.« C’est important, mais pas pour son aspect religieux », raconte Poul Jansen. Tout commence le 23 décembre,« on décore le sapin le soir quand les enfants sont partis se coucher. » Pas question pour eux de voir le sapin avant le jour J.« Dans le temps, on mettait même le sapin dans une pièce différente de la maison. » Justement, parlons-en de la maison ! Celle de Poul et Niall est remplie de bougies.« Oui, le Danemark est le plus grand utilisateur de bougies au monde. Elles sont allumées matin, midi et soir pendant la période des fêtes. » Et on les comprend… À cette période de l’année, il fait nuit à 15 h au Danemark.

Les quatre dimanches avant Noël 

Au centre de la table, quatre bougies symbolisent les quatre dimanches avant Noël.« Nous les allumons au fur et à mesure. » Comme un calendrier de l’Avent fait maison. C’est aussi l’une des particularités des Danois.« Nous faisons beaucoup de décorations nous-même. » Pommes de pin, bougies, houx, branchages… Tout sert à parfaire le décor. Côté repas, c’est plus complexe.« À la maison, nous pratiquons plus la tradition danoise, exceptée pour le repas du 25 décembre. Niall qui est Irlandais tient à son repas. » Dommage, pour la traditionnelle amande cachée dans la crème fouettée du dessert (Lire ci-dessous).« Toutes les amandes sont coupées en deux sauf une et celui qui la trouve a un cadeau supplémentaire. » Une fois le repas du réveillon terminé, on passe aux choses sérieuses : les cadeaux.« Le sapin est déplacé au milieu de la pièce pour qu’on puisse danser et chanter autour. Les cadeaux sont distribués à ce moment-là. S’il y en a trop, une personne est chargée de les donner. » Au Danemark, on aime faire durer la magie de Noël. Le 25 décembre, un autre grand repas est organisé avec« le reste de la famille et tous ceux qui ne pouvaient pas venir le soir. » Le 26 décembre ? Rebelote !« Comme le 24 et 25, c’est un jour férié qui permet d’organiser un autre grand repas avec les amis. » Pour le Jour de l’An, on met les petits plats dans les grands.« C’est très formel et important. » Mais après tous ces grands repas,« Celui-ci est plus léger », rigole Poul Jensen. Huîtres, cabillaud… Tout le monde se met à la diète.

Mélanie BÉCOGNÉE. 



Article issu de l'édition de Loudéac-Rostrenen du Wednesday 24 December 2014

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Carrot ginger and coconut soup

 

With the evenings drawing in and winter fast approaching, I thought I would introduce you to one of my favourite soups. I was first introduced to this soup over a year ago by a lady called Dorothy who runs the Cobalt Cafe in Great George St in Dublin, Ireland. It was the glowing log fire which had attracted me into the cafe and the unusual antiques within which are for sale. But I was struck by the powerful combination of tastes and textures this soup offers. After a year of persistent questioning and interrogation, Dorothy finally gave in and let me have her secret recipe. It was well worth the wait as I am sure you will agree once you have tasted it yourself.

You will need:

3 tbsp of coconut oil

3 onions peeled and chopped

4 small potatoes peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic peeled and grated

800g carrots peeled and grated

4 tbsp of peeled and grated fresh ginger

Chicken/vegetable stock (1000ml)

400ml tin of coconut milk

200g cooked chick peas

Fresh juice from 1 lemon

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

1 tbsp of curry powder (mild)

1 tbsp of ground cumin

Fresh chives or parsley  (optional)

Method

Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan and once hot add the onions and garlic. Mix and allow to soften up then add the curry powder and the cumin. Keep mixing and then add the grated carrots and ginger. Add the stock and keep mixing. Add the finely chopped potatoes and allow to cook for around five minutes. Add the chick peas and the coconut and mix well for three minutes. Remove from heat and liquidise the soup using a hand blender. Dress with fresh chives or parsley as you wish and serve.

A Ligurian Olive Grove

We may be in Nice but being so close to the Italian border demands a visit to the world famous olive groves of Liguria high up in the Mediterranean Valley of Argentina! The ROI Estate of Franco Boeri is only a two hour spectacular drive along the sky high autostrada through numerous tunnels as you pass along the Cöte d'Azur and the play places of the very rich and famous including Monte-Carlo, Monaco and Cap-Martine. As is often typical with borders, the tempo changes as soon as you cross into Italy and we see less expensive villas and more commercial enterprises particularly greenhouses of every description in every possible elevation! When you get to Sam Remo you follow the signs inland to the "Valle Argentina" and your destination village of Badalucco high up in the spectacular mountains of chestnut trees yet only 30k from the Mediterranean Sea.

The Boeri family have been cold pressing olives here since the early 1900's but the uniqueness of the valley was noted in Roman times when only "freemen" we're allowed to cultivate the olives. It has given rise to a unique variety of olive - the taggiasca  which Franco and his ancestors have made world famous through their cold pressing techniques and processes. With only 6000 olive trees on 26 hectares, the ROI Estate has won applaud from culinary chefs and restaurants the world over. It was wonderful to be taken on a tour of their mill and a free tasting of three distinct cooking oils. The family welcome visits all year to the mill and you can even send your children on a tour in season when they collect the olives straight from the trees and run through the process of production. It is evident that Franco and his family respect their unique environment and are making an extraordinary enterprise from their local olives. We left with lots of goodies and are sure to return again and again in the future. It is a fabulous trip with a delightful destination. However you can also shop online for their products here:http://www.olioroi.com/en/stores

Walking the Royal Way

One of the reasons to get out and walk is that you see a lot more on two legs. This is all the more evident when walking the old road from Tourrette-Sur-Loop to Vence in Provence. It is all the more necessary in the middle of cooking school when rich sauces and delicious desserts are being consumed on a daily basis!  I took the old road for the simple reason that there would be less traffic on it but had no idea when I set off that it would be so lovely. Neither did I know that this old route was actually fairly famous as the gentry took it from Vence to Tourrette -Sur-Loop paying their respects to Saint Mary Magdalene on route where a little shrine remains in her honour. It was just like a step back in history where cocks of hay still sit on fields and honeysuckle and roses peepout at you from the hedges! No blackberries at all but lots of fig trees bursting with ripe figs just ready for my picnic as well as green olive groves, roses and passion flowers. I even came across a pepper tree which was a first for me! When you remember that this is a walk in late September and I am more minded of summer days in Crete I see why this part of France is so very popular with visitors from more northern climes! 

Cider House rules in St Goueno

Our local cider producer, Cidre Fermier has just gained a gold standard award for his cider. He has a little organic orchard and a tiny bottling plant and shop but is open every day in the summer for our students to visit. Just knock on his door and you will have to practice your French.  If you are lucky bring your car so that you can take a few boxes of the cider home with you. All our students get the opportunity to taste the cider during their time with us. Without doubt it has exceeded all expectations and so long may Cidre Fermier rule in St Goueno.

Latest Review on Trip Adviser

If you're looking to learn to cook wonderful food in France then look no further. I have just returned from a delightful week learning to cook delicious food under the expert tutelage of Poul.

When researching my trip I wanted a school where I would learn a variety of dishes (including starters, mains, sides and desserts), would be taught in a relaxed environment and most importantly would be able to get 'hands-on' in the cooking experience. French Dining School delivered on all of these points, meeting and far exceeding my expectations.

Expect to cook a two course lunch and three course dinner every day (apart from Thursday where lunch is free for exploring!), as well as lots of other little treats along the way (think cheesy biscuits and tasty cookies!). Poul made sure we were always learning something new but still had time to taste, experiment and learn new techniques. I cooked many things that were new to me, and picked up some extra tips and tricks gleaned from Poul's many years working in restaurants.

Meals are enjoyed with the other students in Poul's lovely home, where the wine is free flowing and the conversation even more so. Poul also arranged lovely accommodation for me in Gaynor and Ray's local B and B which I also highly recommend.

100% recommended, amazing experience.

Molly P July 2014

A Visitor to our garden

What a surprise our cooking students got last week when this little fellow came up our garden and looked into our kitchen! We had just been planning the Friday dinner and how we would prepare a Beef Wellington for the main main dish! I guess this guy heard our conversation and took off fast when he saw Poul in his chef outfit! So unlike the little tame deer who approached Poul on holiday in Spain  which we could not get rid - he was afraid of the dogs in the area and felt safe with Poul. It took us hours to find his owner and even when we did, Tinto (his name) was still reluctant to leave our company. I wonder how long this little fellow will remain in our woods?!Venison anyone? No he is far too cute!

Rhubarb soup with mint

You will need:

4 sticks of rhubarb
1/2 a stick of vanilla
1 pt of water
6oz sugar
5 sprigs of mint
1 lemon

Method

Take the leaves of the mint sprigs. Peel the rhubarb and cut it into thin slices. Put the rhubarb peel in a saucepan with the water, sugar stick of vanilla, the juice of the lemon and the by now leafless mint sprigs, let it simmer for 10minutes. Sieve the liquid and add the rhubarb slices. Bring it to the boil, take off the heat and leave to cool. Cut the mint leaves into thin strips. Serve the soup ice cold with the chopped mint leaves on top.
Serves 8 people

Celeriac Burger with beetroot and horseradish

Ingredients (makes 4 burgers)

1 medium sized celeriac, peeled and grated

1 medium size onion peeled and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 eggs
1 small bunch of parsley, chopped
150 grams of gluten free flour or buckwheat flour (put an extra 50 grams aside in case mixture is too wet)
1 chili
1 lemon
Salt and pepper
Dash of olive/coconut oil

Serve with beetroot and horseradish.

Method

1. Steam the celeriac for 5 minutes.
2. Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the flour, garlic, salt and pepper and parsley.
3. Chop up the chili and onion place into the mixture.
4. Heat a large frying pan over moderate heat and add a dash of oil.
5. Scoop 1 large tablespoon of mixture into the frying pan, then flatten it slightly with a spatula. The mixture should make around 4 burgers. Cook the burgers for 4-5 minutes on each side, or until golden.
6. Place burgers onto a paper towel to soak up any excess oil.
7. Drizzle with lemon juice before serving with beetroot and fresh horseradish sauce.

Asparagus Royale with Smoked Salmon

Serving  asparagus royale is always a sure winner. It is a simple starter dish which when prepared and served properly is a gourmet delight! You will need:

75g asparagus tips
50g smoked salmon
2 tablespoons of béchamel sauce
2 tablespoons consommé
4 egg yokes

Method:
Cook the asparagus tips in boiling water for two minutes then drain and set aside. Add the béchamel sauce and consomme and press through a sieve. Bind the mixture with the egg yokes and pour into buttered ramekins. Cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for 30 minutes. Remove from ramekins  and serve with salmon.

The Gourmet Vegetarian

Cèpes from the forest

One of the delights of being a professional chef is that you get to appreciate the extraordinary variety of food provided by Mother Nature. This is often best demonstrated by the gourmet vegetarian who using a combination of skills and knowledge can turn a simple product (or combination of products) into a sophisticated and extraordinary culinary dish. The menu below is a sample of our new five day gourmet vegetarian cooking course. In most cases remember the secret is often in the sauce!!

Monday

Lunch

Starter: Creme Ninon, a classic French green pea soup

Main: Mozzarella in carrozza

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dinner

Starter: Artichoke in a citrus soup

Main: Potato Gnocchi with salvia butter and Parmesan

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dessert: Panna Cotta with fresh fruits

Tuesday

Lunch

Starter: Bruschetta

Main: Parmesan Omelette

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dinner

Starter: Rosemary baked carrots with a curry Sauternes sauce

Main: Farci Nicois

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dessert: Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla ice cream & orange jam

 Wednesday

Lunch

Starter: Small tomato pizza Provençale

Main:  Grilled goats cheese with peppers and toast on a salad

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dinner

Starter: Asparagus with poached egg and Hollandaise Sauce

Main: Homemade Pasta with pesto

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dessert: Caramelized strawberries with cinnamon & poppy seed ice cream

Thursday

Lunch

Visit to Dinan Food Market or visit Mont St. Michel

Dinner

Starter: Provençale Courgette Tart

Main: Mushroom risotto

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dessert: Apple Gratin with Cinnamon ice cream

Friday

Lunch

Starter: Beet & caramelised onion tart

Main: Caesar Salad

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dinner

Starter: Gazpacho

Main: Polenta Lasagne

Cheese: Selection of French cheeses

Dessert: Tiramisu

Our First Cooking Class in French

We recently ran our first cooking class completely in the French language! It was a great success.  I was lucky in that everyone was so friendly and supportive. My French is slowly getting better  and to be honest I much prefer my Boeuf en Croute to my Beef Wellington!!

Best Food & Wine Destination in Brittany

So today is a wonderful day as we received a commendation from the Daily Telegraph as one of the best food & wine destinations in France! Here is the link and of course we fully agree!!

 Cooking Breton style

It’s easy to make your own gourmet tour of Brittany, picnicking on fresh market produce by day and dining in the seafood restaurants of towns like Cancale and Quiberon. Taking a five-day course at the French Dining School, however, gives you a grounding in how to go one step further and actually reproduce the splendours of Breton and modern European cuisine back home, cooking over 30 dishes including buckwheat galettes, Far Breton desserts, scallops and lobster. The school is in the village of Kerrouet, 50 miles southwest of St-Malo, with accommodation in the local château, or nearby gîtes.

* The French Dining School (00 33 2963 44 381; frenchdiningschool.com) five-day course costs €995 (£838), including lunch and dinner; château apartments from €290 (£244).
Greg Ward
Read the author's expert guide to Brittany

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/france/123966/France-summer-holidays-guide-food-and-wine.html

Asparagus with Mousseline Sauce

One of the most exciting aspects of the arrival of spring is the arrival of the asparagus season. Asparagus must be fresh to be at its best and ideally consumed on the day it is picked. It can be served on its own with a knob of butter or with a vinaigrette, mayonnaise, hollandaise, mousseline or maltaise sauce. Asparagus with soft boiled eggs or scrambled eggs are a delightful combination but the vegetable is so versatile you can add it to salads, risottos or with any dish as an accompaniment.




Ingredients

2 kg large green fresh asparagus
9 oz butter
4 egg yokes
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons créme fraíche
1/2 lemons
sea salt
sugar
cayenne pepper

Method

Scrape the asparagus with a peeler to remove any scales and clean thoroughly. Cut stalks to an even length size and place in a saucepan of boiling water. I usually add 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of sea salt to the water as it helps hold in the flavour.  Boil gently for five minutes as you don't want to overcook the asparagus. It should be soft but firm when cooked. Wrap the asparagus to keep it warm and set aside.

Clarify the butter and set aside to keep warm. Combine the egg yokes and the water in a saucepan. Blend with a whisk and place the saucepan in a bain-marie. Heat the water in the bain-marie to simmering and whisk the eggs which will start to froth as the mixture thickens. Remove the saucepan from the bain-marie. Add salt and pepper to the eggs and slowly whisk the clarified butter to the mixture until it is completely blended in. Strain the sauce through a conical strainer and add lemon to taste. Your hollandaise is ready. To convert it to a mousseline, just before serving,  add créme fraíche and check for seasoning. Keep warm. Place the mousseline in a warm sauce boat and serve with the asparagus.

This is normally served in Brittany with sparkling water or/and a muscadet wine.