Chasing Hares and Medieval Ovens

Brittany is full of little secrets just waiting to be explored. It is easy to drive through these tiny villages and miss the historical gems right there on your doorstep. I know the beautiful 8th century church (of St Gall) at Langast (my brother got married there and my dad played the organ). It is the third oldest church in France and well worth a visit. Go in the morning and enjoy a very reasonable priced lunch in the adjacent restaurant belonging to Yann (how can he do a three course lunch for 11 euros?!). Then continue your journey along the pleasant route of the D76 in the direction of Plouguenast (incidentially the first town in France to be lit by electricity!), you will pass the little village of Le Vieux Bourg. By all means enjoy the unusual and revamped 12th century church right in the centre of the village but don't forget to seek out the medieval stone oven just opposite.


If you are lucky like we were yesterday, you will see this oven in use and I can verify the bread is absolutely as real bread should be - with just the right texture, the taste, the smell is just wonderful. You can eat this bread alone nothing else is required! The flour is milled by millstone and is so different to the touch. To find the watermill which is still in use today, simply follow the route of the hares! You will need some knowledge of the local dialect, Gallo, which is still spoken around here to ascertain which road to take off the D76. So drive slowly as you leave Le Vieux Bourg and watch out for the signs to Goutte es Lievre literally meaning "hare sighting place" and follow the lovely road down to the river and the 13th century moulin which still has a working watermill.

What is more you can in this place at the right time actually take part in original communal bread making exercises! Yes large troughs of flour and water are kneaded into dough by numerous busy hands some tiny and some not so little but all relishing these ancient practices and singing the traditional songs which go along so well with such life enforcing embraces.

So thank you Jean Paul and Theo for some lovely loaves and a wonderful insight into bread making in ancient Brittany. If you would like to get involved in making your own bread in the traditional manner you can find more info from Jean Paul on Tel 0671619655 or email amindupain@wanadoo.fr