Monday 3 October 2011

A Good Read - The Kitchen Library

Here are a number of good cookbooks which were recommended recently in the press:

Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers
Produced by the team behind one of New York's most renowned vegetarian restaurants, this useful tome boasts "no enticing pictures, just 175 easy recipes that taste so good, meat eaters might well be converted", says Keith Aris. Don't be put off by the use of American-style "cup" measurements, he adds. "Just enjoy the proven reliability of these recipes."
Clarkson Potter - £19.99

Flavours of Morocco by Ghillie Basan
According to Keith, Basan's compendium of North African dishes is "a beautiful book from an experienced writer who, as with her Middle Eastern books, creates flavoursome recipes set in their social context". From excellent, spicy tagines to inventive variations on couscous and much, much more, this is sure to "provoke holiday memories," he adds.
Ryland, Peters & Small - £19.99

My Favourite Ingredients by Skye Gyngell
The latest book from the head chef at Petersham Nurseries Café in Richmond. This one puts individual ingredients as the star players, wrapping a collection of sure-to-impress recipes (from blood oranges with warm honey and rosemary to grilled partridge with chilli, marjoram and ricotta) around groups of seasonal produce. Gorgeous photography by Jason Lowe and a clear layout make it easy to use, too.
Quadrille - £25


Chocolate by Trish Deseine

Alice Hart turns to this book whenever she needs "a killer recipe for a dinner with friends". From classic brownies, mousses and cakes to more adventurous truffles, Easter eggs and cocktails, it's all here. There's even a section on "chocotherapy", whatever that is. "There are some great tips on working with chocolate scattered throughout the book and the chocolate granola is a dream," promises Alice.
Hachette - £12.99

Essence: Recipes from le Champignon Sauvage by David Everitt-Matthias
Double Michelin-starred chefs might be forgiven for writing books beyond the average home cook, but Everitt-Matthias falls into no such trap, says Keith. "Offering exquisite variations on classical recipes - such as roasted rib eye of black Angus beef with braised lettuce and winkles - all are clearly described with helpful advice for both the amateur cook and professional chef. David makes it all seem so simple. You know it isn't, but this very reasonably priced book generates confidence."
Absolute Press - £25

Riverford Farm Cookbook by Guy Watson and Jane Baxter
This brand-new book promises "a sensible look at simple meals using British vegetables, in tasty seasonal recipes - many with international influences", advises Keith. "Beetroot and blackcurrant relish may not be an obvious combination, but it is superb with duck and game. Celeriac and cabbage will never be mundane again!" Fourth Estate - £16.99

The New Art of Japanese Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto
The latest venture from Masaharu Morimoto, the former Japanese baseball-player turned- chef. This book is "sheer gastro porn" according to Keith. "Fantastic photography highlights innovative healthy recipes and, while luxurious pouches of Caviar tempura may stretch some pockets, everyone can stun their guests with "frozen lettuce" - an original take on a Caesar salad." Dorling Kindersley - £25

Great French Chefs (and their recipes) by Jean Louis Andre
This book promises "pure photographic decadence and a great insight into the traditions - and recipes - of 14 of the best French chefs", says Tom Lewis. One to get your creativity flowing, it offers a whistle stop tour through French cuisine, with advice from renowned culinary masters as well as up-and-coming names, and an insight into the varied gastronomic character of each region of the country. out of print - from £12.49 online


The River Cottage Family Cookbook by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Fizz Carr

Not just a book of nutritious, family-friendly meals, what puts this book above its competitors is the way it's been designed to be used by the whole family to make cooking fun. So, while there are plenty of recipes for spaghetti carbonara and homemade burgers, there are also food "projects" such as making your own butter, growing potatoes or tossing pancakes.
Hodder & Stoughton - £20

French Provincial Cooking by Elizabeth David
"Nearly 50 years after it was first written this classic, which introduced us to 'la cuisine terroir' - what grows together goes together - is still the first book many consult for French classic dishes," says Keith. "Even if you aren?t tempted to cook any of the dishes described in it, the book is so well written that you cannot fail to be impressed by the variety in French regional cuisine," he adds. Penguin - £8.99

The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas
"Bacon is a standard choice for many a simple supper, but there is nothing standard aboutVillas's book," states Keith. "The irresistible smell of bacon oozes from the pages, as Villas shows the versatility of bacon, even bacon desserts - for example, bacon and peanut butter chocolate truffles. Vegetarians beware; these dishes could prove too tempting."
John Wiley & Sons - £18.99

Madhur Jaffrey's Ultimate Curry Bible
"Jaffrey's recipes celebrate the Indian diaspora and its rich culinary heritage. Dishes are as diverse as they are delicious and include western interpretations on Indian food, fish curries from Thailand, fiery Trinadadian flash fries and curried Burmese soup," says Roopa Gulati. "It was here that I first learnt the ropes of cookingSouth African masalas for my Durbanborn husband. Even his mum approves of Jaffrey's boldly spiced biryani, crammed with meaty morsels, veggies, and perky chillies." Ebury - £25

Decadence By Philip Johnson
In spite of the title, this book has a good range of desserts from the simple weekday pud to the exotic entertaining masterpiece, according to Keith. "Philip Johnson may be one of Australia?s most acclaimed chefs, but the peach and white chocolate bread and butter pudding takes this British classic to another level," he says. Murdoch Books - £14.99

The Basic Basics Jams, Preserves and Chutneys by Marguerite Patten
Written by one of TV's first celebrity chefs, if you're not sure what to do with a glut of tomatoes or blackcurrants, this no-nonsense guide to jams and pickles will point the way. "Forget those over-sweet, mass-produced jams and chutneys," says Keith. "For over a decade amateur cooks have been benefiting from this very usable tome. Most recipes have variations on the mother recipe and Ms Patten's basic apple jelly easily becomes elderberry, elderflower, geranium or even cranberry." rub Street - £7.99

The Ultimate Recipe Book by Angela Nilsen
"Meticulous in her research, Nilsen takes 50 much-loved dishes and dedicates herself to honing each recipe to foolproof perfection," sums upRoopa. "From summer pudding to Thai green chicken curry, scrambled eggs to chocolate cake, no stone is left unturned in her quest to discover ultimate recipes and the result is a creative collection of trustworthy recipes, which also makes for an entertaining and informative read."
BBC Books - £16.99

Home Cook by Alastair Hendy
"Hendy's recipes are a nostalgic tribute to our past - the succulent roasts, proper puds, and Anglo-Italian pasta dishes a throwback to the 1970s," says Roopa. "Tastefully updated with stir-fries and noodles, this is a book that seamlessly combines homespun British flavours with street food from South East Asia. I love it for its comfort factor, and his marvellous meals don't call for a degree in butchery or ace filleting skills." Headline - £25

Maze: the Cookbook by Jason Atherton
"I love this book to distraction," says Roopa. "Everything about it stands out - Atherton's precisely written recipes, openness to share kitchen secrets and flair for playing with global flavours all impress. Then there's Ditte Isager's cutting-edge food photography. Once every few Saturdays, I'll put everything on hold and cook for the pleasure of selfish indulgence. I'm a kitchen anorak and will sieve the mashed potatoes three times over, use crab shells for making stock and whip up pistachio sabayon." Quadrille - £25

Terrine by Stephane Reynaud
Reynaud "conjures up tasty new twists on old classics in the first good terrine book for some time", acknowledges Keith. "The recipes remind us how easy this technique can be. Most people don't automatically think of terrines as desserts but a chocolate and raspberry terrine can be spectacular." Kate Colquhoun also recommends Pork &Sons by the same author (Phaidon, £24.95). "Pork is sadly underrated and this book gorges on it. Reynaud's stuffed cabbage embodies Gallic sophistication." Phaidon - £16.95

Fresh by Mitchell Tonks
“Mitch Tonks loves to keep dishes simple and his straightforward approach to cooking is a world away from the arty flourishes of haute cuisine," says Roopa. "Sometimes I'll pick up a selection of shellfish after work and follow his genius recipe for cooking everything with a bundle of bucatini and herby tomato sauce. The whole caboodle is baked in foil and, when opened at the table, it unleashes a deliciously fragrant puff of steam, the closest I've come to Mediterranean sunshine food this year." Michael Joseph - £20

Modern Mezze by Anissa Helou
"Fresh and aromatic, with clear, precise and completely delicious recipes", this collection of 100 dishes from Lebanon, Turkey, Greece, Morocco and Iran "makes you feel healthy just by reading it", says Kate. From delicious dips and herby salads to crisp pastries, piquant pulse and grain dishes, fragrant vegetables and tender meat, if you like Middle Eastern food but don't know where to start, this is an excellent place.
Quadrille - £12.99

Sauces: Sweet and Savoury Classic and New by Michel Roux
"A good sauce can make or break any dish, so this book is an essential in any cookery book collection," advises Keith. "Classic oils, coulis, vinaigrettes and sauces are all explained clearly," he adds. Better still, preparation times for the books recipes are often about five minutes so you can ditch those "packets of chemical- laden sauces and recreate these tasty healthy sauces - they always impress." Quadrille - £9.99

Larousse Gastronomique
This cookery encyclopaedia "is the ultimate chef's bible" promises Tom. Organised alphabetically, it guides you through everything from ingredients and cooking styles to wineproducing regions and even gives a handy rundown on using appliances. Though it does contain recipes, Larousse is perhaps most useful as a reference manual for when you're using another book and get stumped half way though a recipe. Look up whatever's holding you back in here and you should be on your way again. Hamlyn - £60

Formulas For Flavour by John Campbell
"When I returned to Britain in 2001, after living abroad for almost two decades, this book was one of the first to inspire and bring me up to date with new-wave cooking styles," says Roopa. "Even today, every time I open his book I come across an idea that makes me want to throw on my pinny. From parsnip ices to courgette flowers filled with fennel cream and perfectly proportioned savoury mousses and stuffings, these recipes are challenging, but, if you've got the time, immensely rewarding." Conran Octopus - £20

The River Cottage Fish Book by Nick Fisher
With the aptly named Nick Fisher as co author, you'd expect this book to know its stuff and it doesn't disappoint. According to Tom, this is "a great big book with lots of simple fish recipes", many of which are designed around more unusual British species rather than just sticking to the usual suspects. "It's packed with information and it reminds you that cooking is fun."
Bloomsbury - £30


A New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden

This updated version of Claudia Roden's classic book is "the culinary Bible for middle eastern food", states Kate. "Aromatic cookery with a strong sense of purpose, and of belonging", the recipes are easy to follow, the writing characterful and the results - both with everyday meals and special occasion spreads - completely winning. Penguin - £18.99

Grand Livre de Cuisine: Desserts and Pastries by Alain Ducasse
"This is the Rolls-Royce of dessert books," says Keith. Written by the triple-Michele in-starred chef, "many of these desserts are spectacular in their depth of flavour and simplicity of presentation. This is not a book for everyday use, or the amateur cook, but a book to own, if you can". Roopa agrees, adding that "this weighty doorstopper panders to my love of all things sweet and is an investment that feeds my weekend hobby. Ducasse is a master and this book puts his artistry centre stage." Alain Ducasse - £110


The Essentials of Classic Italian cooking by Marcella Hazan

"This has yet to be bettered," promises Kate of this no-frills foodie favourite (don't expect glossy photos). "My copy is splattered with gnocchi, tomato sauce, gravy and oil, but I wouldn't replace it for the world. It does what it says on the tin, and more." out of print - from £16.25 online

Cook Simple by Diana Henry
Almost every recipe in this book slightly realigns the expected and cries out to be made, according to Kate.It takes basic store-cupboard ingredients and turns them into such delights as hot and sweet roast Mediterranean vegetables with Tahini dressing or baked lime and passion-fruit pudding. "It also looks wonderful," she adds. Alice blames Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons by the same author for fuelling her love of Middle-Eastern cuisine. Mitchell Beazley - £20

Exploring Taste and Flavour by Tom Kime
This collection of 150 recipes is based on the principles of the south-east Asian taste theory, combining the four main tastes of hot, sour, salty and sweet. It’s also seriously underrated, according to Alice. "The flavour combinations are fabulous and vegetables are given the platform they deserve. I particularly love the northern Indian smoky spiced aubergine and the geng gari curry". Kyle Cathie - £14.99

Gordon Ramsay's Just Desserts
"As far as desserts go, this is one of my much loved books," says Roopa. "You can tell it's my favourite because most pages are smudged with a memento - a buttery fingerprint here, a streak of raspberry sauce there. Our popular family choices include whirls of crisp meringue piled with passion fruit cream, bread and butter pudding laced with Baileys cream liqueur and a deliciously wobbly orange panna cotta. Surprisingly simple to put together, these recipes taste much like they might in a restaurant." Kelkoo £17.84

The Silver Spoon
"The definitive guide to Italian cookery for the past 50 years, this is packed with over 2,000 recipes and is brutal in its simplicity and honesty," says Tom. Originally published in Italy in 1950, this classic wedding-present fodder - updated for contemporary audiences and translated into English - sets out the skills of various experts in a form designed to be easily digested by a wider audience. Phaidon - £24.99

The French Laundry Cook Book by Thomas Keller
"This was a revolutionary book when it came out and is still a real kitchen favourite at my hotel," says Tom. "Everyone is always trying to borrow it!" And no wonder. Thomas Keller is the chef-owner of the French Laundry restaurant in California, perenially rated the best in the world by Restaurant magazine, and according to Tom, "one of the most influential chefs of our time". Workman - £40

Made in Italy: Food and Stories by Giorgio Locatelli
This book enjoys a permanent position on Alice's bedside table "but occasionally gets dragged downstairs when the pasta machine gets dusted off", she admits. Packed with explanations and descriptions about ingredients and styles as well as recipes (which often include several variations on a theme), Locatelli's laid-back style means the recipes aren't too intimidating for amateurs to follow. Fourth Estate - £19.99


Crust: Bread to Get Your Teeth Into by Richard Bertinet

"We bought a bakery a year ago and this is one of the books I bought to find out more about baking artisan-style breads," says Tom. Full of clear, practical advice and packed with photographs, whether you want to tackle a basic sourdough, try your hand at producing bread made with spelt or experiment with bagels, pretzels and brioche, this is "accessible and easy to follow for amateur bakers". Kyle Cathie - £19.99


Jamie at Home by Jamie Oliver

"Predictable to include a Jamie book, I know, but the recipes are consistently delicious," says Alice. "This is the food I want to eat with family and friends," she adds, of the book's no-messing style and rich flavours. Inspired by the vegetables growing in Jamie's garden each season, it gives some basic planting information alongside recipes for such delights as "cheeky chilli-pepper chutney". Michael Joseph - £25


Sarah Raven's Garden Cookbook

Kate's favourite cookbook of 2007, this rallying call for the field-to-plate philosophy "deserves to become a classic", she says. "Beautiful to look at and encyclopaedic in its range, it reaffirms the ancient connection between the garden and the kitchen," she adds. Bloomsbury - £30

Amuse-Bouche by Rick Tramonto

If you're looking for ideas for original and exciting starters and accompaniments, go no further than this book, suggests Tom. Subtitled Little Bites of Delight Before the Meal Begins, it focuses on seriously sophisticated dishes (anyone for a lobster club sandwich with vanilla aioli, or figs with mascarpone foam and prosciutto di Parma?), but serves them up in bite-sized portions. Random House - £18


Nico by Nico Ladenis

"Nico Ladenis is one of the chefs who first inspired me to start cooking, after I heard him interviewed on Desert Island Discs," remembers Tom. His book condenses the author's experience into a series of straightforward recipes, offering an insight into Ladenis's culinary philosophy. It's often said, for example, that the controversial chef refused to cook steak medium or well done, whatever the customer's preference. - from £35 online


Real Fast Food by Nigel Slater

Alice recommends anything by Nigel Slater "to soothe and comfort". And, while not the most recent of Slater's books, Real Fast Food is a classic, packed with quick, no-nonsense recipes for satisfying food. With its evocative prose and enthusiastic style, this will help you transform store cupboard ingredients into something sublime with the minimum of effort. Just beware of its brazen use of oil, butter and cream. Penguin - £8.99

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