A Still in Brittany - Turning Cider into Calvados - with Theatre

When our Woodsman,Gabriel Herve (Gabby), invited us to the annual Alambic Lunch, we knew we were in for something special. Some of our neighbours had expressed concerns and even hinted that it could be dangerous. However we trust Gabby and his friend Shrek and enjoy very much being in their company.

Although we knew this event would take place before Christmas we only had one days notice! We had hoped to bring along a few friends from Kerrouet but things got complicated when we realised Gabby's mother was busy preparing galettes for lunch. Galettes are famous buckwheat pancakes which are very popular here and can be served as healthy fast food in a variety of wonderful ways!

As is customary in Brittany, a quick round of pastis was consumed at home and then we were whisked away to the local bar in the village of St Giles de Mene where Serge, the proprietor, again supplied us with more pastis while our host Gabby purchased lots of goodies for what looked like a real French lunch - 6 x bottles of Claret, bread, Camembert, sausages, foie gras , Brittany cookies and coffee.

Following the purchase of another few rounds of pastis , we were soon back in the vehicle and on our way to Gabby's parents home. Well I naturally assumed we were eating there so when we entered the house and introduced to his mother, I did the expected thing and kissed her and the other ladies present (each one four times on the cheek), took off my coat and smiled at all those present around the dining table.

A delightful aroma of fresh galettes filled the air. As I took my place at the table there was a scream from Gabby and it became clear we were not eating at this house!! We quickly took our leave, scrambled back into the vehicle as Gabby explained that he had collected the galettes and we were now on our way to the Alambic!

The countryside of the Mene is famous throughout Brittany and indeed France due to the numerous little hills and hideaways which traverse this beautiful terrain. Although we have cycled all over the place we were soon completely lost amid old oak forests and stream clad valleys and it began to rain. All of a sudden, the four wheel drive took a sharp turn to the right and we found ourselves in what appeared to be an abandoned granite quarry. There were a few vehicles present and what looked like an old steam engine under a compactor like shed. Smoke was bellowing out of the underbelly and the sweet smell of what can only be described as apple poteen arose into the damp air. We were at a temporary distillery!!

The scene came direct from a mad max movie! Here we were up to our ankles in mud; in an abandoned quarry standing close to the largest still I had ever seen in my life; smoke and steam spurting from its entrails (or Madam Thatcher as the locals called her); being introduced to all the farmers as they came to exchange their barrels of cider for casks of calvados! As each farmer came to do their exchange, they brought wine and food to share! There was a genuine festive feeling in the air! Without further ado, sausages were placed into the furnace of the still and within minutes, we were handed wonderful barbecued sausages wrapped up in galettes! Glasses of wine and Briton whiskey were offered around as the fumes of the calvados gradually consumed us all. The charming banter and brusqueness of the locals was captivating. These farmers and woodsmen have known each other all their lives and it is evident that they share a common culture and history which enhances their sense of fun and mischievousness.

Next thing I heard Gabby calling for theatre and La Fables de la Fontaine! He was busy directing Poul who was now standing upon a chair with a large camembert hanging from his mouth. Gabby was trying everything to get the crow to sing and it was some of the best drama I have ever seen! Gabby rolled on his back in the dirt like a fox,threw his feet high up into the air, cursed and twisted and courteously sang the praises of the crow. He charmed, bedazzled and surprised us all with a powerful and evocative performance. Needless to say he did not get the camembert as Poul swallowed it in the heat of the performance almost chocking with laughter along with the rest of us as he did so!

A Wonderful Time for Borsch

Not everyone is as lucky as we are to have Marcel and Edith living nearby. Not just because they are wonderful neighbours. Marcel and Edith are organic farmers and yesterday Marcel arrived with a big bag of beetroot along with an enormous white cabbage! When I saw the beetroot I knew immediately what I was going to do today! Yes folks with fresh beetroot it has to be borsch!

Funnily enough when I mentioned this to Marcel he seemed unaware of this wonderful Ukrainian dish. Many of our neighbours grow the beetroot as a staple food for their rabbits! The rabbits thrive on this vegetable and the result is the most wonderful rabbit pate on earth but that is a story for another day!!

Anyone who has been to Ukraine will know that everyone has their own special recipe for making borsch. Not only that but each one swears by their dead grandmother that their recipe is the most unique, the most superior with secret variations and processing methods. This is because beetroot, despite it's dramatic blood colours, cooked on it's own is rarely a treat. Fantastic as a salad. As a soup it demands time and treatment. However with the addition of a few basic vegetables and herbs it can become the king of soups! The texture and taste of borsch will vary depending on the cooking time.

I am making borsch for four people the traditional way. I learned the recipe from a lovely Ukrainian lady we know called Elena who lives in Chernivtsy - a beautiful historic town in the south west of the country about four hours drive from Kiev.

Ingredients:

5 x fresh beetroot
1 x white cabbage
3 x onions
4 x smoked sausages
4 x carrots
2 x potatoes
1 x garlic
1 x bunch of chives
2g x horseradish
1g x black peppercorns
1 x teaspoon of salt
1 x home made stock (half litre)
2 x litres of water

First place a large saucepan containing water and the home made stock on the stove. Cut and peel and dice five large fresh beetroot. Cut peel and dice two potatoes, four carrots, 3 onions, 1 garlic and shred one small white cabbage. Have some grated horseradish and cut chives prepared for addition later. Add the smoked sausages and diced vegetables to the saucepan and allow to cook slowly. Add salt and peppercorn. Add the shredded cabbage and horseradish once the soup has come to the boil but turn down and allow to simmer slowly for one and a half hours. This will bring out the delightful taste and wonderful colour of the beetroot.

Serve direct to the soup bowl with a sprinkle of chives and a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche.

This is a great winter soup. It is not only exceedingly tasty but the colour being a deep red is probably the most dramatic colour you can have on a plate. Coupled with a sausage and the dollop of cream or crème fraiche, it certainly deserves to be called "Soup of the Tsars"

Learning to live without Roellinger

We hear reports of doom and gloom from the resturant businesses of London and Dublin caught up in the crash of the world's financial markets. With vacant tables galore they would cast an envious eye at Les Maisons de Bricourt, Olivier Roellinger's 3 Michelin star restaurant in Cancale, Brittany which is fully booked up for lunch and dinner every day until the 15th of December when,very sadly for us, it will close. The restaurant would be fully booked up till St Patrick's Day 2009 and well beyond, so it is certainly not a lack of customers which are to blame for the closure. Running any restaurant is hard work and a 3 star Michelin restaurant even more so. While Mr Roellinger has decided to take a well earned rest we propose you give it a go cooking great food in your own home.
To help you we are running the following short courses at Kerrouet House which will enhance your cooking skills and give you a taste for some of the best food Brittany has to offer.

Sample Dinner Course

Brittany Escallops with Fleur de Sel de Guerande marinated with an orange and lime fructose

Grilled Red Mullet with toasted cauliflower puree and chive mousseline sauce

Quail with figs and apple

Gruyere cheese with selection of winter fruits

Almond and apple pie with poppy seed ice cream



Sample Lunch Course


Brittany Oysters with red onion and apple.

Salmon fish cakes with chives and tartar sauce

Selection of Cheese

Kerrouet Kitchen

Cooking Courses at Kerrouet House

Lunch day 1



Starter: Grilled scallop with rosemary on a Cauliflower purée
 
Main:  Caesar Salad the classic way
 
Cheese:  French cheese




Dinner day 1


Starter:  Moules Marinade

Main:  Chicken breast with tarragon, rosemary baked carrots,

slow roasted tomatoes and crispy potato pancakes

Cheese:  French cheeses

Dessert: Panna Cotta with fresh summer berries







Lunch day 2

Starter: Carpaccio of Salmon with  a pesto of basil 
Main:  Galettes a la Breton 
Cheese:  French cheeses


Dinner day 2


Starter: Duck salad with orange and apple
Main:  Oven baked fish with risotto
Cheese:  French cheeses
Dessert: Chocolate cake and fresh fruit coulis


Lunch day 3


Starter:  Green Pea soup with chives and fresh cream
Main:  Salmon fish cakes on a garden salad with dill dressing

Cheese:  French cheeses


Dinner day 3


Starter: Foie Gras terrine with green bean salad
Middle:  Grilled Langoustines with garlic butter
Main:  Slow roasted leg of Lamb and seasonal vegetables
  with a tomato and herb dressing
Cheese:  French cheeses
Dessert: Tiamisu

* Three day courses cost E750 per person inclusive of lunch and dinner.
Accommodation is available locally from E25 per night subject to availability.
Five day courses cost £950 per person including lunch and dinner.
Please check our website for further information.

 

www.frenchdiningschool.com

Who's Who at Kerrouet House

Poul Jensen has over 28 years in the restaurant business. He trained in one of the best French restaurants in Denmark (Gammel Aalbyhoj - Relais Gourmand - Tradition et Qualitie). He gained invaluable experience at some of the world's most esteemed restaurants including Longueville Manor (Jersey Channel Islands); Mietta's Restaurant of Melbourne (Australia) and the world renowned liner the QE2. In London Poul worked for Noble Rot (Mayfair) and The Walbrook Club (City of London) with Albert Roux.

Poul has also run his own restaurant in Denmark (Ebeltoft) for 8 years and gained widespread recognition for his cuisine. Poul has also worked in the wine industry with some of the best wine houses of France.

Niall O'Reilly has over 20 years in the entertainment and leisure industry. Niall worked for 14 years at the National Theatre (London) where he was responsible for security, safety and Licensing. Niall, a graduate of Economics, grew up along with a large family on a dairy farm in County Cavan, Ireland where he learned how to cook under the direction of his mother and grandmother. The farm was virtually self sufficient and nothing was wasted. Niall loves gardening and developing unusual hedgerow recipes. Rose hip jam and crab apple jelly are currently all the rage at Kerrouet House following a summer craze in making classic elderflower cordials!

Dorothy Crowscare has been looking after the gardens at Kerrouet House for the past three years. Her main role is to ensure that there are adequate supplies of organic herbs and vegetables available for the kitchen. She can always be found working in the garden and never happier than when surrounded by her flowers.

Onde Dragtoit has overseen works at Kerrouet House for the past four years. His main duties are to ensure the rising sun is properly greeted  each morning and that guests arrive with a smile on their faces! He is normally found facing east on the highest point of the property!

Ange Tomber looks after the dining room, library and winter lounge. Her main roles  are to ensure harmony and balance within the school. As someone who once excelled in catering excellence she is there to advise and remind guests that we all progress in life, sometimes up and sometimes down but the important thing is to always try your best, enjoy what you are doing and learn from experience.

Kerrouet House

Kerrouet House - was built in the 16th century as the home of the tax collector for the nearby Manor of Plessy and two other manor houses in the area. As a "royal" longere it fell into neglect during the French Revolution and was abandoned for many years. In recent times it had been home to a professor of Mathematics (Sorbonne) but unfortunately fell into a near derelict state in the 1990's. The house was discovered by Niall seven years ago on a holiday visit to Brittany. Despite the jungle of brambles, nettles and ivy surrounding the house, Niall immediately fell in love with the monastic stone entrances, grand fireplaces and royal chimney. Over the past few years Niall & Poul have worked hard to restore the property and now use the premises as both a beautiful home and a cooking school.

Kerrouet Village

The village of Kerrouet lies in the heart of The Mene - the beautiful rolling hills of Brittany which are so famous for walking and cycling holidays. Kerrouet is located 1 hour from Rennes with links to Eurostar in Paris and Charles de Gaulle Airport. Dinard Airport is a 40 minute drive with Ryanair links to London, East Midlands and Bristol. St Malo port and the wonderful seaside resorts of Val Andre are only an hour away.
Cancalle also nearby is world famous not only for it's oysters but also for Maisons de Bricourt - the 3 star Michelin restaurant run by Olivier Roellinger.

Cooking Courses

Five day courses run from Monday to Friday with introductory dinners on the Sunday evenings. The courses commence at 10am and run till after dinner (10pm) with a break following lunch (2pm - 6pm).

Kerrouet House